This article was written for a publication called edible Lowcountry (i.e. South Carolina) and edible Atlanta by Steven Siler. It’s good. Sums up our philosophy. It’s an on-going challenge to fight for purity in our products. We believe it’s our responsibility.
Here’s the article… Thanks for reading, Rusty
Jason versus the Goliaths
By: Steven W. Siler
Okay, I can admit it. No one, I mean no one, wanted to be the individual to write this article. If one has been a fan of the edible Lowcountry publications, you quickly realize that we are about local, sustainable and organic food and food culture. So what was I doing in wanting to write about a CHAIN restaurant, that was not even from SOUTH CAROLINA? Obviously the pollen has been affecting my judgment. Maybe it is that I am a contrarian by nature. Or that sometimes, we do things just because. Alas, I sally forth!
I travel a great deal throughout the South. From Atlanta, to Greenvilles (all four… Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina) to back here in the Holy City. And like most, I try to eat conscientiously, both supporting locally, as well as the much more difficult task of eating healthily. Yes, enjoying free range eggs with goat cheese is marvelous, but on sheer calories and content, my waistline doth much protest. And after a typical week of sampling foods, again delicious each in their own right, I simply want a filling, healthy salad. And at least once a week, I find myself turning to Jason’s Deli to scratch that itch.
In most recently, getting my usual turkey Reuben with a salad, I noticed something that shook me. Organic condiments. Ever seen them? I OWN a condiment company, and I never have seen them in a chain restaurant, at least east of the Mississippi river. My Reuben, my delicious dependable treat, was being slathered with organic mustard. At the salad bar, delicious little cracker treats that proclaim “Organic” and banners proclaiming organic greens on the salad bar. And my personal soapbox issue, non-corn syrup soft drinks (or co-cola or soda pop or whatever your geographic pronunciation is). What was going on?
I managed to get in touch with the operating partner of the two locations here in Charleston, Curtis Acheson, to schedule not so much an interview, but a fact finding mission. From here, I began to learn the story behind Jason’s Deli and the co-owners Rusty Coco and Joe Tortorice (the two other co-owners Pete Verde and Pat Broussard were not mentioned).
Apparently Rusty Coco, the de jure head of Jason’s Deli, has a reputation of being a contrarian himself, a case in point of having colored jewel ropes for his office door at corporate headquarters (You remember the ones, they were at Wendy’s for years). Rusty, as he is know in Jason’s Land, even hosts a blog where he responds regularly to issues from others or thoughts that he has. According to Acheson, Rusty personally tested every menu item himself, and goes as far as soliciting menu ideas from employees. Recently, the Big Cheese sandwich was introduced from an Atlanta employee. Most importantly, Rusty is the driver of healthy and organic menu offerings.
“Back in 2000, we decided to get the partially hydrogenated oils out of all of our food. The more we looked at food products, the more partially hydrogenated oils we found. It’s everywhere!” said Rusty. In changing its entire menu and every product it serves, Jason’s used its considerable purchasing power (120 locations) to push its suppliers to change their ways, not just their prices. “We told our suppliers to rework their products or we would find others who would,” recalls Rusty. “We refused to take no for an answer.”
What was the toughest item? Margarine. There was no such thing as a buttery blend free of partially hydrogenated oils on the market a few years ago. Other hurdles were bread, Jason’s signature broccoli and cheese soup, whipped topping, the mac and cheese on Jason’s Junior menu, chocolate mousse, and the crackers on Jason’s Famous Salad Bar. The bread now is purchased from a local bakery in Atlanta.
“We are extremely proud of what we have done,” said co-owner Joe Tortorice. “No one else in the restaurant industry has successfully accomplished the removal of partially hydrogenated oils on this scale. We are doing the right thing for our customers’ health by leading the way on this.”
What is next for Jason’s? In a promised effort to keep food as real and as good as possible, Jason’s has eliminated MSG from our menu and has announced they are in the process of removing High Fructose Corn Syrup from many menu items. Pure and simple. “We aren’t concerned with what those studies find or don’t find. Why go through all that trouble studying and analyzing these chemicals, when you could just use real food? The same food that nature has been perfecting for centuries.”
“The farther away from the food chain you get, the less good the food will be.”
So says Pat Herring, director of Research and Development, for Jason’s Deli. “When you’re cooking at home, you don’t have all this stuff…you have a recipe that says ‘pinch of salt,’ ‘some garlic.”
Jason’s Deli does seem to be concerned with real food. To quote, “…we believe in recipes, not formulas.” When buying food for Jason’s Deli, Pat has a simple rule: “I look at the list of ingredients, and if it has more than two or three lines, I don’t buy it. The more food is changed, the worse it gets.” And does Jason’s buy locally? Their much vaulted salad bar is serviced locally by Limehouse Produce. Given the prominence that the salad bar has on the business of the restaurant, this means that this company is putting a great deal of business faith in a local company providing local produce. Even their coffee is locally roasted here in Charleston.
Pat is very passionate about the effect of the removal of these chemicals on the taste of our food. “People get used to MSG and high fructose corn syrup, so when you take it out, they’ll say ‘where’d the flavor go?’ But the flavor didn’t go anywhere. The flavor is still in the food. We want you to taste the food, not the other stuff. The closer to the food chain, the better it is for you.” Apparently this is Pat’s motto.
Surely the emphasis on real food, local purchasing and healthy ingredients is destroying profit margins in an industry known for its scanty margins anyway. “Does it matter? Yes, but it is more important to do the right thing” says Acheson. Apparently, Jason’s does not focus on what its competition is doing. Of course, I have to ask if they will continue to support local and healthy foods, once words like “organic” and “locavore” are no longer Madison Avenue favorites. Acheson responds that they were doing this before it was popular, and will continue after others move on. Besides, he says, it is what Rusty wants. My favorite little crackers, so wonderfully organic, are Carolina-born and bread, no bun intended.
Just out of curiosity, I did a quick comparison on this thought with another sandwich company head, McCEO Jim Skinner. When asked about organic food in his restaurants, he responded…”It’s possible. We look at everything. If we have the kind of demand for organic food that is perceived to be healthier, we’ll be all over it. We are customer driven. We measure everything. We test everything…However, I remember McDonald’s McLean burger in the mid-90s. It flopped. So, the consumer demand needs to be there.” Thank you for this reality check.
Time will most assuredly tell if this madness of going against the grain of restaurant conventional wisdom will hold water. Like everything that we do, we balance what want with what we have at our disposal. As for me, I have made peace with my decision to write this article. Mostly, because in the American Idolized world of McEverything, I follow my conscience, and I still have to eat. And in this case, it was a simple matter of putting my mouth where my money is, so to speak.